Rolex Watches: The Crown of Luxury Watchmaking Since 1905

The Crown of Luxury Watchmaking Since 1905

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Hans Wilsdorf: The Visionary Behind Rolex

The history of Rolex watches begins in 1905 in London, where German businessman Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis established a company called Wilsdorf & Davis. The partners imported Swiss watch movements, fitted them into British-made cases, and sold the completed Rolex watches—though they did not yet bear that name—to local jewelers. From the beginning, Wilsdorf possessed an extraordinary talent for marketing and brand building.

In 1908, Wilsdorf created the name “Rolex”—a short, memorable word that he claimed came to him while riding a horse-drawn omnibus through London. The name was designed to be easy to pronounce in any language and elegant enough to fit on a watch dial. Wilsdorf registered the Rolex trademark and began building what would become the world’s most valuable watch brand. Every Rolex watch produced since carries this carefully crafted identity.

In 1910, a Rolex watch became the first wristwatch to receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision from the Official Watch Rating Centre in Bienne. Four years later, a Rolex watch earned the Class A precision certificate from the Kew Observatory in Britain—a distinction previously reserved only for marine chronometers. These achievements established Rolex watches as instruments of genuine precision, not merely fashionable accessories.

When the British government imposed a 33% customs duty in 1915, Wilsdorf relocated Rolex to Bienne, Switzerland. In 1919, Rolex moved its headquarters to Geneva, where it remains to this day. This Swiss identity would prove essential to the Rolex brand, associating its watches with the country’s unparalleled watchmaking heritage. Hans Wilsdorf had transformed a London trading company into a Swiss horological institution.

The Rolex Oyster: Revolutionary Waterproofing

The Rolex Oyster, introduced in 1926, represented one of the most significant innovations in watchmaking history—the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. The Rolex Oyster case featured a revolutionary design with a screw-down bezel, case back, and winding crown, creating a hermetically sealed environment that protected the delicate movement from water, dust, and humidity. Wilsdorf named it the “Oyster” after the mollusk’s impenetrable shell.

To prove the Rolex Oyster’s revolutionary water resistance, Wilsdorf orchestrated a brilliant marketing coup in 1927. He equipped English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze with a Rolex Oyster watch during her attempt to swim the English Channel. Despite spending over ten hours in the frigid water, the Rolex watch emerged in perfect working condition. Wilsdorf took out a front-page advertisement in the Daily Mail proclaiming the success, establishing the template for Rolex’s association with exploration and achievement.

The Rolex Oyster case design established principles that continue to define the brand today. The screw-down crown—secured like a submarine hatch—remains a signature Rolex feature. The Twinlock and Triplock crown systems used in modern Rolex watches are direct descendants of this 1926 innovation. Every professional Rolex watch, from the Submariner to the Sea-Dweller, traces its waterproof capability to the original Oyster.

“A Rolex watch is not merely a timepiece—it is a passport to a world of achievement, a tangible symbol of success recognized across every culture and continent.”

Watch Artworks

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The Perpetual Movement: Self-Winding Revolution

In 1931, Rolex introduced the Perpetual rotor—a self-winding mechanism that transformed watchmaking. The Rolex Perpetual rotor is a semi-circular oscillating weight that pivots freely in both directions with the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. This movement continuously winds the mainspring, providing a constant and stable source of energy. As long as you wear a Rolex Perpetual watch, it powers itself—running “perpetually” without requiring manual winding.

The first Rolex Oyster Perpetual models appeared in 1931, combining the waterproof Oyster case with the automatic Perpetual movement. This combination created a watch that was both protected from the elements and convenient to operate—a breakthrough that established the template for modern automatic watches. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual designation remains on Rolex dials today, signifying this foundational technology.

The Rolex Perpetual rotor undergoes constant refinement. Modern Rolex movements feature rotors weighted with platinum for optimal winding efficiency. The Chronergy escapement, introduced in 2015, improves energy transfer by 15% while resisting magnetic interference. Every component of a Rolex Perpetual movement reflects decades of engineering development, building upon the original 1931 innovation.

The Rolex Submariner: Defining the Dive Watch

In 1953, Rolex introduced the Submariner—a watch that would define the dive watch category and become one of the most recognizable timepieces ever created. The Rolex Submariner was the first diver’s wristwatch waterproof to 100 meters (330 feet), combining the Oyster case technology with a rotating bezel for tracking elapsed diving time. This Rolex watch established the visual language that dive watches still follow today.

The Rolex Submariner’s water resistance increased to 200 meters in 1954, then to 300 meters in 1989—the current specification. The watch’s design has remained remarkably consistent over seven decades: the Mercedes hands (named for their distinctive shape), the luminous hour markers, the unidirectional rotating bezel with minute graduations for the first 15 minutes. These Rolex Submariner design elements have been imitated by countless brands but never surpassed.

The Rolex Submariner gained cultural prominence through its association with James Bond. Sean Connery wore a Rolex Submariner reference 6538 in Dr. No (1962), establishing the watch as the accessory of choice for sophisticated adventurers. Subsequent Bond actors continued wearing Rolex watches through the 1980s, cementing the Submariner’s status as the definitive luxury sport watch. Today, the Rolex Submariner remains one of the most sought-after watches in the world.

The Rolex Daytona: Racing Legend

In 1962, Rolex became the official timekeeper of the Daytona International Speedway in Florida. The following year, Rolex introduced the Cosmograph Daytona—a racing chronograph that would become legendary among motorsport enthusiasts and collectors. The Rolex Daytona featured a tachymeter bezel for calculating speed based on elapsed time, making it a genuine tool for racing professionals.

The Rolex Daytona’s fame reached extraordinary heights through its association with actor Paul Newman. Newman wore his Rolex Daytona reference 6239—a gift from his wife Joanne Woodward—throughout his successful racing career. The exotic dial variant with Art Deco-inspired numerals became known as the “Paul Newman Daytona.” When Newman’s personal Rolex watch sold at auction in 2017, it achieved $17.8 million—one of the highest prices ever paid for a wristwatch.

Today, the Rolex Daytona remains one of the most difficult luxury watches to acquire. Wait lists at authorized dealers can extend for years, and secondary market prices consistently exceed retail. The Rolex Daytona’s combination of motorsport heritage, chronograph functionality, and exceptional finishing makes it a cornerstone of serious watch collections. Every Rolex Daytona movement is certified as a Superlative Chronometer, meeting standards more stringent than official Swiss chronometer requirements.

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Rolex Professional Watches

Beyond the Submariner and Daytona, Rolex produces a range of professional watches designed for specific demanding environments. Each Rolex professional watch builds upon the Oyster and Perpetual foundations while adding specialized features for its intended use.

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Rolex Manufacturing Excellence

Rolex maintains extraordinary control over its manufacturing process. The company is one of only two watch manufacturers considered truly vertically integrated—producing virtually every component of its watches in-house, from gold alloys to hairsprings to movements to cases. This integration ensures quality control at every stage and protects the Rolex brand from supply chain dependencies.

Rolex produces its own gold alloys, including the proprietary Everose gold—a pink gold formula containing platinum that resists fading over time. The company manufactures its own steel, selecting only the finest 904L grade—the same corrosion-resistant alloy used in chemical and aerospace industries. These material choices contribute to the exceptional durability and appearance of Rolex watches.

Every Rolex watch earns the Superlative Chronometer designation, indicating accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day—twice the precision required for official chronometer certification. This testing occurs after the movement is cased, simulating real-world wearing conditions. The green seal on every Rolex watch represents this commitment to precision that has defined the brand for over a century.

Investing in Rolex Watches

Rolex watches have demonstrated remarkable value retention and appreciation over time. Unlike most consumer goods that depreciate immediately upon purchase, many Rolex watches—particularly professional models—sell on the secondary market for prices exceeding retail. The Rolex Submariner, Daytona, and GMT-Master II consistently command premiums, while vintage Rolex watches can appreciate dramatically.

The Rolex brand’s value stability stems from multiple factors: controlled production limiting supply, timeless designs that avoid obsolescence, exceptional build quality ensuring longevity, and powerful brand recognition creating sustained demand. A Rolex watch purchased today can reasonably be expected to maintain its value—and potentially appreciate—over decades of ownership.

New Rolex watches are available exclusively through authorized dealers, though waiting lists for popular models can extend for years. The pre-owned market offers immediate availability, often at premiums above retail for desirable references. Whether purchasing new or pre-owned, buyers should verify authenticity carefully—Rolex watches are among the most counterfeited products in the world.

Where to Buy Rolex Watches

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The Crown’s Continuing Legacy

Hans Wilsdorf died in 1960, having transferred ownership of Rolex to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation—a private trust that ensures the company will never be sold. This structure has allowed Rolex to maintain its commitment to quality without pressure from shareholders seeking short-term profits. The Rolex brand continues to operate according to Wilsdorf’s original vision: creating the finest watches in the world.

Today, Rolex produces approximately one million watches annually—each one assembled by hand, each one tested to standards that exceed industry norms. The distinctive crown logo adorns wrists from boardrooms to dive boats, recognized instantly as a symbol of excellence. For collectors, enthusiasts, and those who simply appreciate fine craftsmanship, a Rolex watch represents the pinnacle of what a mechanical timepiece can be. Those seeking Swiss alternatives might consider Omega with its space exploration heritage, or explore Japanese excellence through Grand Seiko.

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Explore the Rolex collection at rolex.com or find pre-owned pieces at Bob’s Watches